Out of gallery
24' RV-compliant trailer arrives
Taking some measurements for preparing insulation. The trailer is 24', 14,000-lb capacity, 98" wide. We had the bottom flashed for protection from moisture and bugs. We also order it with the cross members placed flush with the top of the frame to save inches in the height. 1/2" threaded robs placed every 4' inside of outer-frame, approx. 10" from each corner. Now to cut and add insulation.
Insulated cross members below subfloor.
We used two layers of 2" foam board insulation down the middle of the trailer. Around the perimeter, three layers of 2" foam board. Then, we added STYROFOAM Unfaced Polystyrene Roll Insulation on the cross members to reduce air infiltration and provide resistance to water and water vapor.
Simpson tension ties
Although the trailer came with the 1/2" threaded rods built in to the cross members, we added Simpson strong-ties on each wall onto the king studs for added strength. We bolted these from the top, so that the homeowner could access the bolts from underneath the home, if ever needed for tightening. The bolts are 5/8" galvanized hex bolts, 12" long, with lock washer and nut. We filled in around the holes we drilled with Flexseal liquid rubber to create a complete seal. We used 16" htt5 Simpson tension ties.
Primer and tape for EPDM Liquid Rubber roof
We have taped the seams of our roof sheathing with the special tape required for use with EPDM liquid rubber, and have started painting on the special primer. The primer will sit overnight, and we'll start putting on the EPDM first thing the following morning. The primer must still be "tacky" when you put the liquid rubber on.
Measuring for roof installation
We chose to use EPDM liquid rubber for the roof, for several reasons. We only included a 6" slope to save headroom in the lofts, so this is considered a 'flat' roof -- EPDM is the roof of choice in commercial roofs which are flat, or mostly flat. Also, we wanted a black roof, which would blend in with the train theme. But more importantly, EPDM is lightweight and waterproof! Also, the temperature this product can endure ranges from -40 F to over 300 F. Liquid EPDM rubber is good for virtually any surfaces. Liquid EPDM waterproof immediately, It is a one-coat application. It has proven to outlast acrylic, urethane and elastomerics by 4 times. The Liquid Roof coating is specifically designed for RVs and trailers and mobile homes.
starting installation of EPDM
We marked off each section for the liquid rubber, as recommended by the manufacturer. That ensures that the coverage will be the necessary depth for optimum service. This is just a brief clip of the first section going on. We poured on the exact amount required, used a squeegy to spread it, and came back over with a roller to smooth and break up any air bubbles. According to the manufacturer, this coating is environmentally safe which can't be said about many of the other roof coatings on the market. Its powerful resistance to ultra-violet and ozone as well as it chemical bonding properties is its advantage. It is puncture resistant and in addition is completely odorless once cured. We actually have video of the entire installation process, although the files were quite too large to include all of them on this site. It was relatively easy to install, and we're thrilled with the results. We brushed it over the sides of the roof, and covered the fascia. Since it is recommended for horizontal application, not vertical, we did have some running. So asthetically, it is not perfect. But with primer and extra paint on the fascia, we felt this offered a little added protection against the weather elements, and was worth any unsightly drips.
Because of the height of the house, one LP Smartside panel would not be tall enough. This worked to our advantage in the design, since we wanted to create a train look with the mixed red and black. Above the lower panel, we added z flashing - we cut the housewrap and slid the top of the flashing underneath, then taped for a waterproof barrier.
In addition to the gold trim, we added some small bolts to the edges of the transition in panels, plus the lantern-style exterior light and 9 3/4 sign. The steps are a simply temporary boost for us short folks, although we suggest at least one step for the final homeowner since the door sits approximately 14-16" off the ground.
Moving to the inside, we first installed the wiring. We used a 125-amp electrical panel, so we could install an ample number of outlets. The first breaker on the right-hand side in the panel is a 60-amp breaker dedicated to the on-demand water heater. The 2nd breaker is a 15-amp, with 14-gauge wire for the smoke alarm and the outlets in the Gryffindor Common Room and the Ravenclaw Master loft. The 3rd breaker is a 15-amp breaker with 14-gauge wire going up the wall on the utility-side of the house, across through the ceiling, down the tongue-side and services only the outlet on the exterior tongue-side. The 4th breaker on the right side of the panel is a 20-amp breaker with 12-gauge wire, servicing the bathroom fan outlet (for a possible composting toilet), the main bathroom outlet (which is a gfi outlet), the bathroom fan (which is exterior-vented) and the bathroom light and switch. The 5th breaker is a 20-amp with 12-gauge wire, servicing the outlet in the small loft, the outlet for the cupboard under the stairs, the dining bar outlets 3, including one close to the loft ladder), the ERV outlets, and the back-side exterior outlet. The 6th breaker on the right side is another 20-amp with 12-gauge wire, servicing the kitchen gfi outlets, the fridge outlet and the kitchen ceiling outlet. The 7th breaker is a 20-amp breaker with 12-gauge wire, services the microwave outlet.
Some of the overhead wiring
Continuing with the wiring, on the left side of the panel, the 1st breaker is a 15-amp breaker with 14-gauge wire, servicing the small loft light, outlet and switches (a 3-way), the exterior tongue-side scare-light switch and light, the master loft light and switches (3-way), the exterior door light, the kitchen track-light and switch, and the ceiling fan and switch. The 2nd left-side breaker is a 15-amp breaker with 14-gauge wire services the utility box light and outlet.
Because of a couple of timing issues, the insulation was installed before the plumbing. This was not ideal, but since we have limited plumbing, we were able to work around it ok. The plumbing includes a standard shower, bathroom sink and kitchen sink. Although it may not be necessary, we took the added step of wrapping the pipes. We installed a fan for a composting toilet, but did not do any plumbing for a standard toilet. A homeowner could easily add the plumbing, if they opt for a standard toilet.
The bathroom is fully framed now
The right side of the wall will be part of the kitchen, and provide space for the shelving. On the left, stairs will be installed and provide storage, or as we like to call it, The Cupboard Under the Stairs. You can see the 2 small insets we've done on the left. These are just tiny cubbies for a few secret HP items. You can also see that we''ve put down the underlayment for the flooring.