Taking some measurements for preparing insulation. The trailer is 24', 14,000-lb capacity, 98" wide. We had the bottom flashed for protection from moisture and bugs. We also order it with the cross members placed flush with the top of the frame to save inches in the height. 1/2" threaded robs placed every 4' inside of outer-frame, approx. 10" from each corner. Now to cut and add insulation.
Trailer with built-in support rods
1/2" threaded rods were built in to the trailer. Taking measurements to drill the holes in the subfloor at appropriate locations.
Insulated cross members below subfloor.
We used two layers of 2" foam board insulation down the middle of the trailer. Around the perimeter, three layers of 2" foam board. Then, we added STYROFOAM Unfaced Polystyrene Roll Insulation on the cross members to reduce air infiltration and provide resistance to water and water vapor.
We used 3/4" tongue and groove plywood for the subfloor and taped the seams.
Simpson tension ties
Although the trailer came with the 1/2" threaded rods built in to the cross members, we added Simpson strong-ties on each wall onto the king studs for added strength. We bolted these from the top, so that the homeowner could access the bolts from underneath the home, if ever needed for tightening. The bolts are 5/8" galvanized hex bolts, 12" long, with lock washer and nut. We filled in around the holes we drilled with Flexseal liquid rubber to create a complete seal. We used 16" htt5 Simpson tension ties.
All four walls installed and braced.jpg
Walls are up, headers are in, additional bracing is complete. Ready for strapping, then rafters.
The walls are in place and strapping complete, double top plates in place. Ready to begin rafter installation.
When we installed the walls, we added bracing in each corner for added support. Here, the rafters are up, including hurricane ties and rafter ties.
Wall sheathing going up.
Prior to installing the housewrap, we applied liquid flashing over the sheathing from the bottom up approximately 18-24"
House wrap is in place.
House wrap and ready for mortairvent rain screen and bug screen.
Roof rafters are installed!
For our exterior corner trim, we used LP smartside 1-piece corner trim, which made for perfect corners!
Ready for roof sheathing
Emily waiting to pull up more plywood sheets to finish roof sheathing installation.
Roof sheathing from inside
We've started the roof sheathing. This is a view from the inside of the house with the middle boards in place.
Emily installing roof sheathing
Windows are installed and Em is finishing the flashing and housewrap installation around those. Also, rainscreen is going up.
Mortairvent rain screen
Rainscreen installation. We also installed bug screen along the top and bottom during this step.
Primer and tape for EPDM Liquid Rubber roof
We have taped the seams of our roof sheathing with the special tape required for use with EPDM liquid rubber, and have started painting on the special primer. The primer will sit overnight, and we'll start putting on the EPDM first thing the following morning. The primer must still be "tacky" when you put the liquid rubber on.
Not a great shot, but this is the roof after we installed the seam tape and painted on the primer.
Measuring for roof installation
We chose to use EPDM liquid rubber for the roof, for several reasons. We only included a 6" slope to save headroom in the lofts, so this is considered a 'flat' roof -- EPDM is the roof of choice in commercial roofs which are flat, or mostly flat. Also, we wanted a black roof, which would blend in with the train theme. But more importantly, EPDM is lightweight and waterproof! Also, the temperature this product can endure ranges from -40 F to over 300 F. Liquid EPDM rubber is good for virtually any surfaces. Liquid EPDM waterproof immediately, It is a one-coat application. It has proven to outlast acrylic, urethane and elastomerics by 4 times. The Liquid Roof coating is specifically designed for RVs and trailers and mobile homes.
starting installation of EPDM
We marked off each section for the liquid rubber, as recommended by the manufacturer. That ensures that the coverage will be the necessary depth for optimum service. This is just a brief clip of the first section going on. We poured on the exact amount required, used a squeegy to spread it, and came back over with a roller to smooth and break up any air bubbles. According to the manufacturer, this coating is environmentally safe which can't be said about many of the other roof coatings on the market. Its powerful resistance to ultra-violet and ozone as well as it chemical bonding properties is its advantage. It is puncture resistant and in addition is completely odorless once cured. We actually have video of the entire installation process, although the files were quite too large to include all of them on this site. It was relatively easy to install, and we're thrilled with the results. We brushed it over the sides of the roof, and covered the fascia. Since it is recommended for horizontal application, not vertical, we did have some running. So asthetically, it is not perfect. But with primer and extra paint on the fascia, we felt this offered a little added protection against the weather elements, and was worth any unsightly drips.
We built the utility box and added foam board insulation on each side and the bottom.
After installing the insulation, we added plywood for a finished interior.
Finished utility box
The walls and bottom are insulated, plywood has been added for a finishing touch, the plumbing has been pulled through, the on-demand water heater installed, the electrical panel is complete and the interior has been painted.